Forum Brings Fresh Air to Ventilation Issues
Home Energy Magazine Online - May/June 2000
| So far in the United States, only Minnesota and Washington
require mechanical ventilation systems to be installed in new
homes, while all new houses in Canada must have such systems. In
Washington, recent evaluations show that fewer than half of the
systems perform as they should--and some perform so badly that
they actually make indoor air quality (IAQ) worse. Meanwhile, a
new standard on mechanical ventilation systems proposed by the
American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air Conditioning
(AHRAE) has been hotly debated by industry and building
scientists. All this activity raises some fundamental home
performance questions: Do building scientists agree on why
ventilation systems should be installed? Which is the best type
of system to choose? and What are the potential problems? We
asked four experts from across the nation to weigh in on these
issues.
Neil Moyer is currently employed by the Florida Solar Energy
Center; has co-authored numerous scientific papers and articles
relating to building diagnostics and repair; and has been a
trainer for many utilities, the Energy Efficient Building
Association, and Affordable Comfort.
Armin Rudd is principal engineer at Building Science
Corporation. His current activities are primarily in the U.S.
Department of Energy's Building America Program; most of the
information he presents was collected through Building America
research. Armin has spent 15 years in buildings research and
consulting, and before that was a residential building
subcontractor.
Max Sherman is group leader of the Energy Performance of
buildings group in the Indoor Environment Department of the
Energy Efficiency Technologies Division at Lawrence Berkeley
National Laboratory. He is also chairperson of ASHRAE's
Residential Ventilation Standard, SPC 62.2P.
Don Stevens is a private consultant who works on energy and
ventilation codes, products, and standards on behalf of
manufacturers, utilities, and agencies. He has been active in
ventilation code and product development for nearly 20 years.
Here's what they had to say.
[Editor's note: Answers were edited for conciseness and
clarity. For more details on the topics raised here, send me
your questions at
colleen@homeenergy.org, and I will try to have them
addressed in future issues.]
Neil Moyer
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Armin Rudd
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Max Sherman
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Don Stevens
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Tight homes need fresh air, but which homes need mechanical
ventilation systems, and which system should you choose?
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| Figure 1. This central-fan-integrated
supply ventilation system would be an affordable option for
homes in a climate such as that in Phoenix, Arizona. It has a 5-
to 8-inch insulated outside air duct connected to the return
side of the central air distribution system. A balancing damper
in the outside air duct field-adjusts the air flow upon system
startup. The outside air is filtered before it enters the
central fan. |
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| Figure 2. When choosing an energy
recovery mechanical ventilation system, it is important to
determine the mean monthly outdoor dew point temperature for the
location, and to keep in mind the interior dew point threshold
temperature. |
Home Energy: What is the purpose of installing a whole-house
mechanical ventilation system in a home?
Don Stevens: The purpose of mechanical ventilation is to
remove contaminants and introduce cleaner outdoor air--independent of
the weather, the house construction, the building site, and the
occupants' actions.
Neil Moyer: This assumes that localized pollution sources have
been addressed by a spot ventilation system.
Armin Rudd: Excessive moisture is a pollutant, so mechanical
ventilation should control interior moisture. Another purpose is to
control interior pressure with respect to the outside, in order to
maximize building durability, aid combustion safety, and improve IAQ.
Finally, ventilation can be done for the sensory satisfaction of the
occupants.
Max Sherman: Another reason to install a mechanical
ventilation system is to remove internal thermal gains (for ventilative
cooling).
HE: What are the qualities of a good ventilation system?
That is; what should a contractor strive for (and a homeowner expect
from) a good ventilation system?
Don Stevens: One that introduces a controlled amount of
outdoor air quietly and with good distribution while remaining
"transparent" to the occupant. By this I mean that the fans are not
noisy, that drafts are minimized or eliminated, that occupant
interaction is not needed to operate the system, and that the system is
cost-effective.
Max Sherman: Systems that cause draft or noise will be
disabled. High maintenance systems will not be maintained properly and
therefore will become unusable. Systems that require much user
intervention will be ignored. It is important to remember that the
ventilation system is part of the whole-house system and must fit into
the home's design.
Armin Rudd: The system should have at least a 15-year useful
life at the design operational time.
Neil Moyer: It should provide indication of operation (or
nonoperation); allow the occupants to shut it off; filter the outside
air brought into the house; be accessible and have replaceable
orserviceable parts; and not cause problems in the areas of health and
safety, building durability, comfort, or energy usage.
HE: Should mechanical ventilation be standard in homes
built today?
Don Stevens: Yes, I believe that all houses built in North
America should have mechanical ventilation systems both for general
indoor air quality and for spot ventilation in bathrooms and kitchens.
Max Sherman: All new homes should have designed ventilation
systems, whether they be mechanical or passive. Passive ventilation
options can work in many situations, but they may require so much design
or commissioning that it is more practical to put in a simple mechanical
system.
Armin Rudd: Most people like their homes better when they are
not expensive, drafty, stuffy, odoriferous, moldy, and wet. They like
their houses to be affordable, comfortable, healthy, and durable. To
accomplish this, random natural infiltration should be minimized, and
controlled mechanical ventilation should be employed.
HE: Armin, do you mean no one should ever open their
windows?
Armin Rudd: No. Operable windows are useful and needed. They
are needed for egress in an emergency, and they are useful for enjoying
mild weather, yelling at the dog/kids/neighbors, and that occasional
major airing-out of the house.
HE: What minimum criteria would determine whether or not a
new home needs mechanical ventilation? In what cases would you retrofit
a home for mechanical ventilation?
Don Stevens: Virtually all houses built today are relatively
tight compared to houses built 50 years ago, even if no overt attempts
have been made to make them tight. As a consequence, virtually all new
houses need mechanical ventilation. I guess a minimum criterion could be
that if a home has heating or cooling installed, it needs mechanical
ventilation. Older homes should be retrofitted for mechanical
ventilation if there are moisture problems, if there is any overt air
tightening being done, or if new windows or doors have been installed.
Armin Rudd: For new construction, a minimum criterion could be
demonstration of the greater of 40 ft3 per minute continuous
or 10 ft3 per minute per person continuous, or the equivalent
volume over a two-hour period, of unpolluted outside air. The air must
be distributed uniformly throughout the house while it is occupied.
A retrofit criterion for existing construction is much harder to
determine. A first criterion would be that the homeowner be willing to
pay for it. A second might be that the home tests at less than 4-5 ACH
at 50 Pa pressure difference.
Max Sherman: ASHRAE Standard 62 provides minimum ventilation
rates for all houses. The proposed residential version of this standard
(62.2) is currently in draft form and, when issued, will provide better
guidance. These standards set the rates according to the size of the
home and the number of occupants. If proper ventilation rates are not
met through passive means, it requires that a mechanical ventilation
system be installed. Sometimes there are reasons to increase ventilation
rates above these minimum requirements.
Existing houses tend to have much higher infiltration rates than new
ones. Therefore, in most existing houses, it would be a waste to install
a mechanical ventilation system, unless the system was addressing a
specific IAQ concern. In the absence of such concerns, the airtightness
of an existing house can be measured with a blower door, and then ASHRAE
Standard 136, which converts such data into ACH rates, can be used to
determine if additional ventilation is needed.
Neil Moyer: New Construction: All homes should have spot
(exhausted to outdoors) ventilation in the kitchen and in bathrooms with
tubs or showers. Whole-house ventilation systems should be installed in
homes where long-term annual estimated air change rates are less than
about 0.2 (that is, 4-5 ACH at 50 Pa). The amount of ventilation air
required should be based on the number of occupants: The long-term
average of the system should probably be around 7-10 CFM per person (it
would probably be number of bedrooms plus 1). Retrofit: Probably similar
to new construction, but now specific occupant life-style can be
addressed--questions like smoking, actual occupancy load, hobbies, and
so on.
HE: Of the three main types of mechanical ventilation (see
"Mechanical Ventilation: Three Types," p. 18), certain types work
better in certain climates and markets. What type of system would you
recommend for typical homes in the following locations: Phoenix,
Arizona; Seattle, Washington; Fargo, North Dakota; Tampa, Florida?
Neil Moyer: Phoenix: Any. Seattle: Any. Fargo: Balanced or
exhaust. Tampa: Supply or balanced.
Max Sherman: Climate is only one of many issues that factor
into the selection of ventilation systems. One must design the house as
a system and include the type of ventilation in that design. Climate
itself affects comfort, energy costs, mold growth, and so on.
To meet the minimum requirements of the proposed Standard 62.2 or
similar standards, the first system type one should look at in any
climate is continuous exhaust ventilation. However, there are reasons to
consider other options in some climates. For example, in a hot, humid
climate like that in Tampa, supply ventilation could be a better
solution, particularly if you have an envelope design that is
susceptible to moisture intrusion. Similarly, in an extreme climate with
higher ventilation-related energy loads such as that in Fargo, a
balanced system with heat exchange could be more cost effective.
Don Stevens: Phoenix: Supply ventilation, to be integrated
with the air conditioning. Seattle: Exhaust ventilation with window
ports or wall vents. Fargo: Balanced ventilation with heat recovery
because of the extreme climate.Tampa: Supply ventilation, in order to
avoid pulling humid air into the wall assembly where it can condense and
cause mold to grow. Also, consider a balanced ventilation system with an
energy recovery ventilator to dehumidify the incoming outdoor air.
Armin Rudd: Phoenix, Production homes: Central-fan-integrated
supply ventilation (see
Figure 1). Phoenix, Custom homes: A heat recovery ventilation (HRV)
unit combined with a fan recycling system on the central air handler.
Seattle: Same as for Phoenix. Fargo, Production homes: A
continuous-exhaust fan pulling air from the central area, combined with
a lower level of central-fan-integrated supply ventilation with fan
recycling. Fargo, Custom homes: An energy recovery ventilation (ERV)
unit combined with a fan recycling system on the central air handler.
Tampa, Production homes: Central-fan-integrated supply ventilation, with
central fan recycling, and a stand-alone dehumidifier. Tampa, Custom
homes: A high-efficiency dehumidifier that filters and preconditions a
mixture of inside and outside air and delivers the ventilation air to
the central area, with central fan recycling for whole-house circulation
and mixing.
HE: Other than climate, what else must be considered in
choosing a system?
Don Stevens: Cost is a consideration. Exhaust ventilation is
the most familiar and generally the least expensive to install and
operate. A quiet bath fan can provide both general ventilation and spot
ventilation for the bathroom. However, in hot, humid climates, exhaust
ventilation can pull humid outdoor air into the wall assembly, where it
can condense on the back side of air-conditioned drywall and cause mold
to grow, so durability issues also come into play. It also can increase
the potential for backdrafting combustion appliances, causing health
concerns.
Supply ventilation is useful in hot, humid climates to avoid
condensation and can be integrated with a forced-air furnace or A/C air
handler for tempering, filtering, and distribution. If there is no
forced air system, dedicated ductwork is necessary to ensure
distribution to the habitable rooms. This increases cost.
Balanced ventilation has many positive attributes related to thermal
comfort, filtering, distribution, and energy efficiency. It can be a
simple power-in/power-out system using two fans, or it can include heat
or "coolth" recovery. It can also be used for moisture recovery, either
to dehumidify incoming hot, humid air or to transfer moisture to the
incoming dry air in cold climates. However, it is generally the most
expensive option.
Armin Rudd: Health is an essential consideration. Exhaust
ventilation systems draw outside air from leakage openings and pathways
located randomly throughout the building envelope; it is not possible to
treat the outside air before it enters the living space. The ventilation
air could be fresh and healthy, or it could be coming from locations
with high pollutant concentrations. For example, ventilation air drawn
from a garage, crawlspace, or basement sump, or from underneath a
concrete slab, may induce entry of fuel vapors, combustion gases,
insecticides, radon gas, excessive water vapor, and fungal or mold
spores.
The source of ventilation air is known for supply and balanced
systems. The air can also be heated, cooled, dehumidified, filtered,
and/or cleaned before distribution to the living space. Therefore, it is
easier to control the air quality factors. Regarding cost and
maintenance, an advantage of central-fan-integrated ventilation is that
the same air handler that distributes air for heating and cooling is
used to distribute ventilation air, and that the fan and filter system
are likely to be kept in working condition and to be used.
HE: Exhaust systems are the mechanical ventilation system
most frequently installed in homes. How severe are the hazards
associated with house depressurization caused by exhaust ventilation?
Don Stevens: Backdrafting does happen, but the magnitude of
the problem has probably been overstated. The largest backdrafting
potential comes from oversized exhaust fans, such as the 600-1,200 CFM
range hoods used in many custom homes. Sealed-combustion appliances
minimize the potential for backdrafting. Using a balanced mechanical
ventilation system, at least for homes with large flow devices such as
range hoods, also reduces that potential. However, short chimneys,
chimneys located on cold exterior walls, and multiple chimneys can all
be backdrafted easily by wind forces, which can be much stronger than
the 2-5 Pa that a typical exhaust system would impose on the house. A
balanced ventilation system provides balanced flow under only one set of
temperature, pressure, and wind effects for any given house. Once a
change in temperature or in pressure occurs, the pressure
characteristics of the entire house change and the flow may no longer be
in balance. A heat recovery ventilator in defrost mode may well place
the home under negative pressure, because it is only running the exhaust
side fan.
Max Sherman: Properly sized exhaust ventilation systems rarely
cause any problems, but they do pose a small potential risk that does
not exist with the other options. In most cases, the problem is caused
by an inappropriate whole-building design rather than an inappropriate
choice of ventilation system (or any one other single thing). It is a
combination of exhaust ventilation and one or more susceptible
components (for example, building envelope, combustion appliance,
venting system).
There are many ways of avoiding these problems (for example, by using
direct-vent appliances). To reduce backdrafting susceptibility,
combustion appliances could be eliminated, be moved out of the pressure
boundary, or be direct vented or power vented.
Neil Moyer: The hazards range from none to severe. They depend
on the amount of air exhausted, the type of equipment in the house, and
the climate that the house is located in. A tight house with a naturally
aspirated combustion device has the potential for flame rollout, CO
generation, and excessive moisture (from combustion of fuels), as well
as SOx, NOx, and carbon (soot) emissions.
Armin Rudd: Building depressurization in hot, humid
climates--other than that from normal intermittent operation of bathroom
fans, kitchen range hoods, and dryers--is hazardous. Use of
low-permeability interior finishes increases the problem greatly. Humid
outdoor air will randomly enter the building envelope, even following
circuitous paths within partitions and interstitial spaces, where it
comes in contact with surfaces that are below the air dew point
temperature (see
Figure 2). If those materials stay moist long enough, mold will
result.
Combustion appliances inside houses should be at least power vented,
and preferably sealed combustion. In such houses, it would be unlikely
for whole-house exhaust ventilation systems alone to cause a problem
with combustion safety. Whole-house exhaust ventilation combined with
other exhaust devices can cause more severe depressurization, requiring
an intended makeup air source. Such devices would include a clothes
dryer, a kitchen range hood or cook-top downdraft fan, a bathroom fan, a
power-vented gas hot water heater, or a power-vented furnace.
For more information:
Roberson, Judy, et al. Recommended Ventilation Strategies
for Energy-Efficient Production Homes, LBNL 40378. Berkeley,
California: Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, December
1998.
Stevens, Don.
"Mechanical Ventilation for the Home." Home Energy
(March/April 1996):13.
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Mechanical Ventilation: Three Types
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| Figure A. An exhaust ventilation
system typically consists of just one fan and an outlet
vent but may consist of a remote fan with intakes at
several locations, as shown here. Passive vents may be
installed in the home to provide clean, controlled
ventilation air. |
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| Figure B. In a supply system, a
fan pulls outside air into the house, creating positive
pressure. Ductwork brings the air into the living spaces
that need it most--typically the bedrooms and living
room. Spot exhaust fans are still needed in
high-pollutant areas such as the kitchen, bathroom, and
laundry room. |
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| Figure C. In a balanced system,
air is supplied to some rooms and exhausted from others.
An optional heat- or energy-recovery unit transfers heat
or humidity from one airstream to the other. Spot
exhaust is included where neccessary; here it is in the
laundry room. |
There are three basic types of whole-house mechanical
ventilation systems: exhaust, supply, and balanced.
Exhaust: An exhaust system may consist of a single fan
that is centrally located in a hallway or at the top of the
stairs, or it can be an upgraded bathroom fan that has a motor
built to run for longer periods of time and is sized to
ventilate the whole house. If the latter, it should be a
two-speed fan that can be operated continuously at low speed to
provide general ventilation and switched to high speed when the
room is being used. (Other bathrooms still need their own spot
exhaust fans.)
Another method is in-stalling a re-mote multi- point exhaust
fan. Usually located in the attic, a remote fan is ducted to
several exh-aust grilles that take air from locations
throu-ghout the house, incl-uding each bathroom (see
Figure A). This system replaces several noisy, inefficient
bath fans. Passive vents in the walls provide fresh air inlet.
Supply: A supply system slightly pressurizes the house
by drawing outdoor air into the house. This pressurization
pushes indoor air out through small openings in the building,
which helps to prevent outside moisture and pollutants from
getting in through these passages. Positive indoor pressure also
protects against backdrafting.
To set up a central supply system, you can mount a single fan
on the wall to pull outdoor air into one room, or install a
remote fan with ductwork to the most frequently used
rooms--generally living rooms and bedrooms (see
Figure B). For an existing house, you can
run a duct from the outside and connect it to the return duct of
an existing forced-air heating and cooling system. A
variable-speed integrated control motor (ICM) fan allows a
reduced air flow for ventilation when heating or cooling is not
needed. However, it may be best to get a fan specifically
dedicated to ventilation, keeping it separate from the heating
and cooling system. All of these approaches vary in terms of
expense and effectiveness.
Balanced: A balanced central system uses two fans and
creates a neutral, or balanced, pressure. One fan exhausts air
out of the house, while the other brings the same amount of
outside air into the house. They may be two wall-mounted fans of
equal capacity--one for supply and one for exhaust--in two
different rooms. Alternatively, they may be ducted to supply air
to the common living areas, such as living rooms and bedrooms,
and to exhaust air from the rooms where pollution is high, such
as the kitchen and bathroom (see
Figure C).
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